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When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.